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Aside from my mom's crappy assortment of 1970s Better Homes
and Gardens and diet cookbooks, The Frugal Gourmet
was my first real live cookbook. With its simple illustrations
and conspicuous lack of over-saturated, unappealing photographs,
it marked my transition from cheerfully bland all-American
cooking into a world of more sophisticated, yet often simpler
cuisine.
The Frugal Gourmet is the perfect primer for any would-be
cook. It will arm you with all the basic information you'll
need: essential pans and gadgets, ingredient must-knows, and
those simple yet defining techniques that separate the Betty
Crockers from the Julia Childs: deglazing, browning, reducing.
But unlike Julia Childs' books of the same era, Jeff Smith's
recipes are easier and the flavors more accessible to an American
palate--two very important considerations for the evolution
of an unseasoned cook. The Frugal Gourmet taught me
the importance of always using fresh garlic, how to make my
own stock, and not to cook with a wine I wouldn't drink.
Back in the 80s, Jeff Smith was one of the best things going
on PBS. He would hold your hand through seemingly complicated
recipes, and was always helpful and enthusiastic, never condescending
or pandering. His first book has a similar flavor, equally
suited to the experienced cook and the kitchen novice. The
book is nicely structured, with chapters variously devoted
to courses (soups, appetizers, breads), cuisines (early American,
New Orleans, international), and individual ingredients (eggs,
tomatoes, garlic). It's also peppered with smart hints and
charming anecdotes. If you were a fan of the television series,
you'll be pleased to see that the book also references the
recipes by show.
Although parts of the book now seem a bit dated (most circa
1984 "exotic" ingredients are now readily available),
The Frugal Gourmet is still a wonderful book that I
consult regularly, for reference or inspiration.
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